ChiliEscapeSouth America

Torres del Paine

By March 4, 2019 No Comments

When-Where-Why?

Trip hiking-camping in Chile to see the Torres del Paine.

We left from February 26, 2019 to March 4, 2019. We chose to do the W starting with the Gray Glacier. Some do W on 4 days, we chose to take our time in case of capricious weather …

We booked the campsites at Vertice and Fantastico Sur, the CONAF website does not work … and once there, of course, everything is complete! By cons we could have the night we missed at the last minute thanks to a withdrawal!

You can go to their offices in Puerto Natales to print the confirmations.

Puerto Natales

* Patagonia Dulce: The paradise for lovers of chocolate and sugar! Super cute little coffee, everything is good and some things are original.

Address: Barros Arana 233

* Angelica’s: The restaurant has a small tea room. Their empanadas are huge and very good. It’s a bit expensive but it’s good!

Address: Manuel Bulnes 501

* Patagonia food: If you want to fool yourself, go for it! Order a lomo or chorrillana … (more details in the Food Porn section of the blog).

Address: Bernando Philippi

* The Boat: Great restaurant. A bit pricey but after a week of pasta and cheese sandwiches it’s nice!

Address: Manuel Bulnes 380

* Emporio Dos Peces: Small shop with South American products (chocolate, rice, quinoa, sauces, jams …). There are nice cereal bars and 100% natural drinking compotes that are super good.

Address: Manuel Baquedano 300

Accommodations booked on Booking.com:

* Hostal Luciano: This is a B & B with a very nice Chilean family. Their first floor is for guests. There are two bathrooms with showers and toilets to share, and a small lounge. It’s clean. You can not cook on the other hand. The must is that they kept us useless stuff for the trek for a week!

Address: 833 Esmeralda

* Casa de Familia Puerto Natales: An B & B in a very nice hostess. Her house is a little dark but it’s clean and warm.

Address: Benjamin Zamora 720

You can fin everywhere.

Torres del Paine

In this part I give you useful information to organize your stay, and I expose you our program. I think that doing the W in the sense that we did it is fine because not very difficult.

* CONAF:

Office in the bus terminal.

Their website is rotten and does not work … good luck with reservations!

Campsites are free with them.

Website: http://www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl

* Fantastico On:

Office in Puerto Natales, Esmeralda

Website: https://www.fantasticosur.com

* Vertice:

Office in Puerto Natales, Bulnes 100

Website: http://www.verticepatagonia.cl/home

* From El Chalten to Puerto Natales:

Duration: count more than 4 hours because of the passage to the Chilean customs.

Price: 950 ARS

* From Puerto Natales to the park:

Duration: 2h-2h30

Price: 7500 $ CH

The boat is a big scam but it avoids detours. The bus stops next to it.

You can buy your tickets at the bus terminal, there is the office of CONAF.

They will give you the map of the park at that time only (it is made on waterproof paper it looks like).

Price: $ 21000 CH / person

Road:

Puerto Natales -> Puerto Pudeto: 2h

Puerto Puedo -> Great Paine: 30min (boat)

Paine Grande -> Gray Glacier: 3h

Hiking:

Big climb in a windy canyon so slowdown. Then descent to the campsite.

Difficulty:

Average

Camping:

Gray Glacier.

$ 16 a night to pitch your tent. Rotten locations on hilly area. Dirty. Well put.

Route:

Grey Glacier ->Paine Grande : 3h

Hiking:

Same as yesterday.

Difficulty:

Medium.

Camping :

Paine Grande.

$ 20 a night to pitch your tent. Locations bofs on hilly area. Great room for cooking. Well put. Clean.

Route:

Paine Grande ->Los Cuernos : 4h

Hiking:

Along the lake. Some climbs. Pretty landscapes most of the time. Big descent to the campsite Frances.

Difficulty:

Average

Camping:

Los Cuernos.

$ 74 a night to use their empty tent. Tents on stilts. Small space to cook. Nice view and in front of the lake. Clean.

Route:

Los Cuernos -> Britanico Lookup : 3h30

Britanico Lookup -> Los Cuernos : 4h

Hiking:

Not so difficult as expected and much shorter. There are a few climbs a bit difficult, especially the last part for 30min going up to Britanico.

Difficulty:

Medium-Difficult (by sections)

Camping:

Los Cuernos.

$ 40 a night to pitch the tent. Tents on stilts. Small space to cook. Nice view and in front of the lake. Clean.

Route:

Los Cuernos -> Chileno: 4h30

Hiking:

Along the lake most of it and not very difficult at first. The last hour is quite hard because of the climb which is very steep.

Difficulty:

Medium-Difficult (by sections)

Camping:

Chileno.

$ 40 a night to pitch the tent. Tents on stilts. You can not cook and the snacks are overpriced (we cooked in Los Cuernos for two days). There is little sanitation for the number of people who visit Les Torres. Noisy next where is the tent.

Route:

Chileno -> Las Torres lookup: 1h40

Las Torres lookup -> Chileno : 1h30

Hiking:

In the forest. There are very steep portions, the last in particular; but the rest is not worse than on the other trails.

Difficulty:

Medium-Difficult (by sections)

Camping:

Chileno.

$ 40 a night to pitch the tent. Tents on stilts. You can not cook and the snacks are overpriced (we cooked in Los Cuernos for two days). There is little sanitation for the number of people who visit Les Torres. Noisy next where is the tent.

Route:

Chileno ->Laguna Amarga

Hiking:

Very simple slope on the first section until the hotel then flat until the Laguna.

Difficulty:

Easy

Bus:

Bus On has monopoly so more returns. Plan well before leaving the company with which you book. Possible to change or take a return with the driver or at the entrance.

Advices

I recommend you leave as much as possible in Puerto Natales, it will save you from tiring you for nothing.

Plan well enough if you camp but do not forget that in the worst case you will be able to buy things in their mini-markets (everything is not expensive!).

Beware if you camp in Chileno, you will have to cook before you go, otherwise take meals on site (but these are super expensive).

You may have a little bit of time.

At the level of the towers if there are winds it can be extremely cold.

Remember to wear gloves, sticks, a warm, waterproof jacket, and a hat.

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