Now back to Chile for a few weeks! You will find below all our stories while visiting this beautiful country.
- Day 68 – Friday 8th of March 2019 : Chile Chico
- Day 69 -Saturday 9th of March 2019 : Puerto Rio Tranquilo
Today is the return to Chile.
This morning I am going to buy croissants very sweet and fat (I took a little too …). We take a first bus to Los Antiguos. The road is very beautiful. We see snow-capped mountains and lakes.
Once there, take a second bus to Chile Chico. We will have made roughly 10min bus but 50min customs clearance … big waste of time. At the border we will sympathize with a French couple who make the same trip as us: Leah and Anthony. So we decided to go to the same campsite in front of the lake and eat together in the evening.
The afternoon we are having a walk with Quentin. There is nothing to do in Chile Chico … we drag. We booked the bus and the trip tomorrow in a shop that sells weapons and fishing tackle! Very funny place to book a ride. It is imperative to go to Puerto Cisnes on March 11th to catch the ferry on the 12th but there are not many buses. So thanks to the tour of tomorrow we combine the bus to go to Puerto Rio Tranquilo then take the boat ride to see the cellars of marble. And from PRT we will try to find a bus to bring us to Cohaique (we hope we will be lucky).
We’re bored too much in Chile Chico! We decide to go to a boho café that sells gluten-free stuff without it without mi because they are the only ones to have internet. Unfortunately we arrive too early so we wait for them to open. Skype guy in front of the shop suddenly I ask him wifi. The girl will arrive an hour and a half after its opening time … but we will still drink something and eat an empanada (very good from elsewhere).
A little later we find Léa and Anthony to go eat. We choose a cozy restaurant that serves great meat. We feasted. Unfortunately they had no dessert so we decided to go see the restaurant in front to have a dessert, we will be more lucky there!
On the way back an old man calls us. He shouts “Boca, Boca! Because Anthony is wearing a football shirt. They invite us all to his place. We laugh because he is drunk and at home it’s pretty creepy. He makes us smoke mategrass and shit … We get tired and we go back to bed at the campsite.
The road is beautiful! mountains of all colors, snow-capped peaks, lakes of unreal colors: blue and turquoise green; too handsome !
It’s beautiful but it’s super long! in addition the road is really rotten suddenly I start to feel nausea … Fortunately after two hours we stop to eat in a small village cute.
We arrive in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, it’s already warmer than Chile Chico. Just arrived we are dropped off at the office to go around the Capillas de Marmol. We are still lucky: blue sky and no wind.
We put on our boat jackets then we go to the boat. The water of the lake is superb. It’s nice. We see snowy mountains on the other side. We arrive in front of the capillas; it’s really interesting to see these marble formations in the middle of a lake. The colors are super pretty with the reflection of the water. We will do a tour of an hour and a half before returning to “city”.
We decided to go to Camping Bella Vista, the one we had talked about Léa and Anthony, hoping to find them there. We cross the whole city (it takes us 10min barely …). The campsite is noisy but we find a quiet place. We are super happy they are here! So we decided to spend the day together.
Tonight there is a party in the village; so we’ll be stalled in front of the lake (maybe to swim) and go to the party.
An Italian who speaks Spanish very well finds us there; he had sympathized with them. He is very kind and will stay with us all day. which will make us speak Spanish so it’s perfect!
We had beer to drink in front of the lake and of course, the police come to dispute! suddenly, as the sun goes down, we go back to the campsite. Only Quentin will have had the courage to go swimming in the lake!
After a big meal we will see the fiesta of the village … woop! a great singer excites the small crowd in the place. The young ladies know all her songs by heart. He sings very well but it’s very kitschy! With Lea we wanted to leave but the boys saw that there were beers and suddenly wanted to stay … We did well because at the end we saw folk dances.
Towards midnight we come back, and we say goodbye. We are a little sad, we hope to see them again later.
- Jour 70 – Dimanche 10 mars 2019 : Puerto Cisnes
- Day 71 – Monday 11th of March 2019 : Unexpected event
Today we get up early because we have to buy our bus tickets for the same morning. There are people already! but it’s good we’re leaving.
The bus is a bit dirty and old but it seems to work. The road is in a bad shape.
At the end of two hours we hear a loud noise of explosion: a wheel exploded. The driver comes back and asks us if it’s going to continue slower, after all, it’s only a wheel out of 12! We ride slowly with this horrible noise at each acceleration and turn, but we advance. An hour later, just twenty kilometers from Coyahique the driver decides to change the wheel … big adventure … it’s a little less than an hour but we will arrive at destination! We were lucky because we heard bus stories that never left …
We arrive at the bus terminal, we go to see if we can take a bus the same day for Puerto Cisnes. Luckily there is one in 1h! We take the tickets and then we go to eat while waiting (pizza!).
The road will be full of turns but very beautiful: mountains and forests. It looked like Switzerland or the Alps. We cannot fall asleep because the bus moves in all directions. We are super tired. On arrival we ask the driver if he knows a campsite. It does not leave us far. We fell well, it’s cute and people are super nice! In addition, their internet works great.
We plant the tent, then we watch an episode before going for a big sleep.
We take our time this morning, we have a day to do nothing. We try to find a breakfast but there is nothing … big disappointment for me because I want my sugar shoot!
We decide to go to the boat agency to see what time we arrive. We learn that in fact we leave tonight … thank you for telling us !!! So, we have done with bin! At the same time it is not worse, we will arrive earlier in Chiloe so we will be able to see more things.
The day will be calm. Quentin is the only one motivated to go for a walk to see a lake. I prefer to take a nap.
On his return we decide to go get a snack. There is a nice shop. Quentin discovers a new beer and eats my chocolate cake because there is dulce de leche in it and I really do not like it. A quick little muffin for me and fruit juice.
On the return to the campsite we buy some stuff to eat tomorrow on the boat. We prepare everything and we go there. A chance we could stay at the campsite all day!
Arrived at the ferry yesterday, a girl stole our seats and lay on at least four. We decided to do the same and wake her up the next day to get our window back.
They put a stupid film mega loud on their TVs; it shouts! We will be lucky, around midnight they will stop the screens and turn off the lights.
The night was short for Quentin; he did not manage to sleep (it is sure that sleeping curled up on 3 chairs is not great …). I slept though (strange …).
We wake up officially around 8:30 in the morning; the girl who took our seat sleeps again (she will sleep almost 12h, so we will give up and change places in the afternoon next to a window).
The weather is overcast and we cannot see anything … great idea to take the ferry to see the scenery! so we decide to watch Stranger Things on Netflix and play Scrabble. We will have nothing much to do so we will watch 5 or 6 episodes in a row.
At one point there is a little animation: whales! I only saw a back and Quentin a tail … woop woop! After this exciting moment, we return to watch our series!
At times we see the coast but it is not extraordinary.
20h later, we arrive! (We just had 2 hours late … after 18h we do not see the difference!).
We hurry out of the boat to take our bags and go for the bus. We will have 3 hours to go to Castro.
It’s quite funny because the bus stops, all the time! people go up and down anywhere!
Once at the terminal we try to find the airbnb. We cannot find it! we ask people, they do not know the house. The address given is the bus terminal two blocks away … there are nice people in an inn that let us use their wifi. We learn that the address of airbnb is wrong !! once again ! suddenly I get angry (again … housing is 8km from downtown …). We decide not to go because tomorrow we would like to rent a car in town and suddenly it does not suit us at all!
The people at the hostel have mercy on us and call their friends to find us a place to sleep. We’ll go right next door. Unfortunately for us, it is very cold, there is no hot water and it is 20 euros a night (too expensive, but we will learn that it is the minimum for a night in Chiloe). But we will not complain, we have a roof over our heads. On the other hand, airbnb only has to behave well, I send them a message illico to moan, I expect to be reimbursed and compensate!
We will sleep in our sleeping bags so we will be cold (even Quentin!). I’m too angry to look for what to do tomorrow (Quentin, more patient makes us the program). Tomorrow is another day…
This morning we get up; I am always angry. The airbnb girl does not who she is talking to and I will not let go!
We decide to book a room on booking.com. It’s early, but we’re still going to drop things. It is not very far.
We arrive and we are very well welcomed by a little lady. The hoste is super nice. She explains everything, we make her some jokes, she laughs and tells us we are really nice so she puts us in a bigger room! The bed looks too good! I cannot wait to sleep in !!
It is said that we would like to rent a car so she calls her son who gives us an address and tells us to say we are at home to have a discount (it will work!).
We take the opportunity to do a laundry, and to shower (she has a hair dryer and straightener! Paradise!), Then we leave to rent the car. On the way we stop to see the famous church of Castro (only interest of the city and what will be our day: see churches classified national heritage). She is yellow but pretty.
Renting the car will be too easy and super fast.
The road is super pretty. Chiloe is very green as an island.
We will stop in several “cities” whose only interest will be their church. We will spend the day mop exploring small towns.
We will eat some fish specialties (see food porn section of the blog).
After a nice day, we will go back to bed in the cozy bed!
- Day 74 – Thursday 14th of March 2019: Paradise in Cole Cole
- Day 75 – Frida 15th of March 2019 : Birds’ singing
- Day 76 – Saturday 16th of March : Last day in Chiloe
Wake up slowly this morning; there are Chileans with us so I take the opportunity to practice my Spanish; in addition the lady of the hostel seems to appreciate me so she keeps talking to me!
Quentin makes him discreet, and prepares his bag, and reminds me that we must leave! So I stop talking, I prepare everything then we go to the bus. We take the opportunity to take bus tickets to Valdivia.
The bus is small and stops every two minutes to get people up and down. It will take an hour and a quarter before arriving at Cucao. The road is pretty.
Arriving in Cucao we go to the entrance of the park, the girl tells us that the hike we want to do is not here and we have to walk along the road for a while and we will pay the entrance further … okay … well, let’s go!
The road is not great: we can see in the distance the ocean; we see some sheep and cows but we walk on asphalt. The hike starts well, I’m a little puzzled but I do not say anything, Quentin looks pretty happy.
After an hour and a half we arrive at the end of the asphalt (phew!) And there we begin to engage on the beach. It’s super pretty! The sand is clear and the beach seems endless. So we made our lunch break. A dog comes to stick to us (he jumps on me suddenly I balance him my fruit to release me). We see fishermen who go back and forth with their 4×4 to bring seafood we do not know where (they are well loaded!).
We will walk well two hours on the beach (without shoes, and with a dog full of hope for his future meals too …). It’s pretty tiring and it’s hot! We were told that it was raining all the time on Chiloe but for now we have a blue sky and sun …
After a while, we are supposed to see a bridge … but we do not see it. So we decided to continue behind the dunes in order not to miss it! After an hour we see the bridge! phew! There are some houses on the other side of the shore. The people made floating seats to cross the stream.
We continue our route away from the beach. We meet one person on the way. It’s starting to climb but it’s still going.
We will finally arrive where we have to pay entrance fees to the park. A man is doing lots of seaweed in front of his house, so he tells us that he is the guide and that it is to him that we must pay the entrance. He works for CONAF and tells us that for 2000 $ CH we can camp on CONAF camping. We pay him that too, it seems pretty good.
We have 1:15 before arriving at destination but the road is horrible: a climb with a drop as we rarely had; in addition, it is too hot! The dog, which we call Juan Miguel (Jean Michel in French …) still follows us. He’s waiting for me whenever Quentin passes me, it’s pretty funny.
There are some great views on the climb. We see the coast, it’s too beautiful! nothing to do with the other landscapes of the island; it is steeper; it looks like Brittany.
We continue then an hour later we arrive in front of the Grail: a beautiful bay, which seems so far from everything! We are all excited! We go down to access the beach, we see the camp of CONAF and a guy on horseback who asks us if we paid the other to sleep. It is too beautiful! We plant our tent in front of the ocean. We do not come back! We do not understand why nobody comes here! We will be 4 for two days!
We look at the ocean and we begin to prepare the meal after setting up the tent. We are tired after six hours of walking.
Juan Miguel is still there, and he is very very clever: he lies down in front of me while I eat and look at me … argh … we cannot leave him like that! suddenly he will be entitled to his pasta ration the bastard! He pains us with his damaged leg and more … we think that if we had been in France we would have adopted … too weak …
We are going to sleep ; the sky is magnificent: we see all the stars and the Milky Way. I have never seen this. I cannot sleep I’m too hesitant to go out and take pictures … my pee break of 4am will take me out of the tent with my camera for an hour. It is too beautiful !! So after that, bin dodo!
This morning it is hard to get up, the sky is overcast and there is mist. Nothing to do with the day before but just as beautiful!
We go get water at the river and on our way back, Juan Miguel jumps on us! How to resist ?! We prepare breakfast (he cill have some also; he on ly eats what I give to him, not what Quentin gives, it’s funny).
Today we go hiking in the forest to see the river (at first I thought we were going along the coast but in fact we will stay in the forest). We have about 5 hours of hiking today.
We cross the bridge over the river where we go to get water and then we start to sink into the forest. It’s super pretty! We see all kinds of trees and plants that we do not know and we hear all the sounds of birds. We love to listen and look for what bird makes such a noise, so our hikes last longer but we always end up finding them, even if we spend a moment!
We should have taken our gaiters today, the ground is muddy, so we have to focus a lot not to sink into the mud. We slalom between the sludge of mud, we walk on stumps, branches, herbs, we try to stay dry as much as possible (on the return it will not work too much for me …). The forest is super beautiful, we are super happy to have taken the time to come to the park.
After three hours, after avoiding the worst in the mud and seen, heard and photographed full of unknown birds, we finally arrive at the mouth of the river in the ocean. It’s super pretty! In addition, opposite we see rocks with strange shapes.
There are two very nice boys from the campsite, including one who has a haircut of the 80s.
We stay a little less than 45 minutes because it is already late and the sun begins to set (and walking in a forest at night is not the best).
We will be a little faster on the return because we will know all the sounds of birds. But after an hour you hear a woodpecker! So we are all excited. We put our sticks in a corner and we go in search of the bird. He is right next to us! Too lucky again, because not only it is 10m from us but in addition, to the opposite tree there is the female who has a different color! we had never seen one before! We will stay a moment to observe them and then we will start again, trying to avoid flooding our shoes too much in the mud and the water.
Once back we chat with Jordi, the guy of the 80s. He is very nice and it makes us practice our Spanish, then we go to “shower” in the river. Since there is nobody around and well, I go for it, I do not care about naked! It is frozen but I do not care, I need too much to wash! Quentin looks pretty happy, but still keeps his underpants. After this good frozen bath we go to eat. Juan Miguel, who had been too lazy to go hiking with us, left; we are sad but suddenly we will have more to eat! We are lucky because it did not rain during the day and the sky was clear. Tonight we will not see the stars unfortunately but at least we will sleep quiet, after a great day, again!
This morning we wake up super early because we must return to Cucao and then take a bus to Castro.
We agree that we will try to take a bus at the end of the beach not to walk an hour and a half on the asphalt.
The tent is soaked because of the condensation, it will have to be dried in Castro. We have breakfast and we pack everything and leave.
We have a great time again: clear sky and blue. At the top of the hill we’ll spend a few minutes looking at the bay (and Quentin will take new pictures of birds).
The return is too difficult! The climb is steep and is too bad! We galley but hey, no choice. We struggle for almost an hour then we continue quietly on the beach. We try to find alternatives to not walk on the sand because it’s too boring and it’s tiring. By cons, the view is a little less beautiful.
On the road we will see cows and horses walking on the dunes, it’s too funny! At one point I see a horse in front of the sea so I start running to take a picture. Quentin joins me and in fact, we say that it is still more beautiful to walk on the sand. As we have advanced we decide to continue on the beach, as it is low tide the sand is harder suddenly less tiring.
After two hours we wonder if we did not miss the end of the hike. We try to catch the road on the side to realize that we went much further than expected! We’re lucky, a bus going to Castro goes past us so we take it and we go back. Quentin will sleep all the way, me no, oddly I’m not tired.
We arrive at the accommodation, all happy with our three days of hiking. We tell all that to the lady (I tell …). She is too kind, she asks me if I want her to make homemade bread for me tomorrow (sure yes!).
We redo our bags for tomorrow and here I hear the voice of Joanna we met in Argentina. I told him to come sleep in our hostel too well. Unfortunately it is complete suddenly she, her boyfriend and their two friends will go to sleep at the neighbor’s house.
We decide to go to dinner together at night and tell each other our adventures. We end in a great restaurant in front of the harbor and we will spend a good evening together.
- Day 77 – Sunday 17th of March 2019 : Valdivia
- Day 78 – Monday 18th of March 2019 – Boat tour
- Day 79 – Tuesday 19th of March 2019 : France culture
Bus too early this morning !!! We have breakfast, it’s still too good! Our host woke up earlier to say goodbye, she is so kind.
We have 7h bus … it’s too long !!!! Arriving at the terminal we decide to buy a phone card in case of a glitch and tell our host that we arrive.
We take a taxi (not want to bother, plus it costs 3 euros …). He welcomes us with his wife and explains everything about the apartment and what to do. Tomorrow the museums and monuments are closed so he tells us to do things tonight, and that tonight is the last time we can eat in a market in a city where there is the fort that Quentin wants to see, in Niebla. I have no idea what there is to do here, it is Quentin who manages because it was his idea to come. They are super nice, they drop us in a place where we can take the bus that will take us to Niebla. We wait a little while. The road is very pretty.
We arrive at the fort, it’s nice. In addition there is a great view of the river. We take our time. When we leave it’s still early so we decide to buy some cokes and drink them in front of the ocean. It’s nice but the tide rises once we finish, we decide to go to the market to eat. It’s super nice! there are plenty of stalls with asados, empanadas and seafood specialties … so you can taste everything! We will leave well filled with the market.
On the return we decide to buy food for the next meals; once again we have eyes bigger than the belly …
We go back then sleep!
After a royal breakfast we go to town.
First step the post: I would like to know if I can return my drone which does not serve me anything here.
Then towards the port, we would like to take a boat trip to see fortifications and remains of the castle. We are accosted everywhere, so no worries to find.
We walk and there Quentin sees sea lions on a board, they are super big!
There is a seafood market right next door! everything looks too good! their molds are gigantic !!! we take a little ceviche and raspberries (a huge container for less than two euros … the dream!). We eat while talking, without paying attention to what is happening around and then I look up screaming! we are 2m from a huge sea lion !!!! we go backwards because the thing is driving us on and it is higher than us! It’s too funny, he goes behind the display of a lady who looks jaded. It moves oddly so it is gigantic! We laugh and then we continue to walk.
The weather is cloudy and it starts to rain but it will not last long. We think about what we will do tomorrow then we return to the port to take the boat. Finally there are more people than we thought.
We settle because they will serve us the meal (aperitif, salmon, dessert). The landscape is very pretty and the sun is back. We will make two stops on two islands to see fortifications. On the first we decide not to go because we do not want to pay (it looks like there is not much). So we walk and a young person comes to us to tell us about the history of the city. We feel the scam but we say yes. We do not pick up anything he says. At the end he tells us something that he is asked to repeat three times (saying that we understood in fact) and then he says “plata! “… so we get fed up and give him 500 pesos. We say we must stop being stingy! we did not want to pay the entrance to 2 euros which was guided to finally give an idiot in the street … So we visit the ruins of the next castle!
The landscape is really nice; when returning to the boat there is a snack! Finally, a snack at 18 is more like a snack but the Chileans eat something around 17-18h and do not eat almost at night. Well, it’s in front of us, we eat it!
Around 19h the tour ends; it was still a beautiful day. It will take an hour on foot to return to housing (it’s not worse … we ate sugar all day). We prepare the business to send tomorrow, we cook, do internet and then sleep.
Today is our last day in Valdivia and we would like to visit the museum and the submarine. But I would like above all to get rid of a few pounds of useless stuff in my bag (drone, clothes etc …). So the first step will be the post office. There are too many people !!!! but good, after one hour I have 7 pounds less in my backpack (and yes not in my hips unfortunately …). I hope everything will arrive in France !!!
So we go to the submarine. Lack of luck the next session is the afternoon so we have time but not enough to do the museum, we will see the botanical garden. Finally, we learn the names of trees that are everywhere and exist only in Chile. It’s a really nice walk.
We decide to eat on the go but in the end we will end up eating a big meal ….
The visit of the submarine is great. We see missiles! It’s really interesting to see all this. This is the O’Brien submarine, the only submarine museum in Chile that was once used by the Chilean army.
Once the visit is over we go to the museum where we will learn a lot about the natives and the first scientific discoveries.
After this big day, we go back to rest.
- Day 80 – Wednesday 20th of March 2019 : Pucon
- Day 81 – Thursday 21st of March 2019 : Too many clouds
- Day 82 – Friday 22nd of March 2019 : Volcano Villarica
- Day 83 – Saturday 23rd of March 2019 : National Park Huerquehue
- Day 84 – Dimanche 24th of March 2019 : San Sebastian
Too bad sleep last night! We have to take the bus to go to Pucon, our new destination of the week. We hope to climb above the volcano and do some trekking.
On the road not far from Pucon you can see the snowy volcano it’s super beautiful! in addition we see the smoke coming out of the crater! The sky is blue and there is no cloud!
The city is great tourist but cute anyway. We go to the tourist office to learn about the hikes; the lady is great and we have all the information we wanted for once! We find a campsite, we put our stuff and then we go for a ride to climb the volcano tomorrow.
Quentin had spotted an agency. They look serious suddenly we decided to go through them (we did not look elsewhere …). The girl makes us try all the equipment for the hike (they even supply the shoes!).
As it is super nice we decided to go to the lake. It’s nice, the sand is black. Quentin tries to tan but it does not work too much.
Once we have done all this we come back to plan a little our world tour then sleep.
That night we were woken up 2 times by fools of screaming dogs! suddenly the alarm clock at 5:30 is too hard! but we get ready, we have breakfast and then we go to the agency.
We prepare the equipment and we leave. We are tired. Impossible to sleep, the road is all dented. An hour later (I think) we arrive at the bottom of the volcano and the guide tells us that unfortunately the weather is too bad to climb and so we have two choices: either we try it now, or we do it tomorrow. So everyone agrees to do it tomorrow. So we go back to the city a bit disappointed (well I’m happy I was too lazy!).
It is super early so we look at what we can do. We decide to do what we planned for the last day: stunts and terms. We take a bus that does not leave us far from the waterfalls. In fact they are on private domains so you have to pay an entry (less than 1 euro so not too serious …). It’s nice, the colors of the lakes are superb. We see some and then we decide to go to the terms. There is not too far. We change buses. We will not be the only ones to go but in the end we will not feel too oppressed.
The site is pretty, it goes down near a beautiful river. There are some hot pools. We will always stay the same because there will be fewer people. The water is super beautiful is too hot !!!! We will stay an hour and a half then we will return to Pucon. It’s weird but we feel more tired after the terms than after 6 hours of hiking …
Since it is not too late we make the internet and make some calls. We must also watch for Tahiti then sleep because tomorrow we get up at 5:30!
Long hiking day today! we get up before the sun to try to climb the volcano we could not do yesterday.
It’s not raining, and it’s not cold; In addition we slept very well. We are in a good mood. We have our breakfast and then we go to the Pollitur agency. We get ready on the spot, we meet those we saw the day before and new ones, then we take their mini van.
There is a lot of fog. We do not even see the volcano, so we expect that the guides to tell us that it is postponed! but no, let’s go!
The first part is quite steep, we walk on volcanic rocks. I have a little trouble following others (they go too fast) but I’m not the slowest so it comforts me a little bit. We climb for a good hour. The sky is uncovered from time to time; we can see the summit which is very clear so it looks promising. In the distance we see a sea of clouds that covers the entire valley but the peaks of two Chilean volcanoes are discover and it’s really super pretty.
We continue the climb for another hour and then things become more serious. We have to put on the crampons and use an ice ax … so I start to panic when he tells us how to catch us in case of a fall. It must be a reflex to hold the ice ax one way and then with the other hand catch the handle … so basically, if I fall, I fall … I certainly would not think to do all that! So I leave with a big apprehension, I did not really want to ride so it’s worse! Quentin seems serene and rather enthusiastic. He is not afraid of anything anyway!
We start to walk on the ice, I do not feel good at all, I do not know if it’s dizziness or apprehension but I start to tense and to really be afraid. The guide sees that it is not going at once it puts people. I’m melting away because I’m really too scared to fall. In addition we see rocks falling at a crazy pace and gaining speed, it does not reassure me at all. He tells me to breathe and that everything will be fine, that I will not fall. Quentin also reassures me and stays behind me, and the guide in front. I have trouble walking, but I move on. In two hours we shall arrive at the top. I want to get there for Quentin; he wanted to do this hike so much. I stop several times to regain my breath. The guide offers me to hang on to him with a rope to reassure me. We advance all three quietly. We are not far from others finally. I never see the end of it it makes me so angry! Quentin is having fun; he can admire the landscape and take pictures.
Two hours later we finally arrive at the last portion of ice. We put the bags, we eat a little and after 20min of walking on the volcanic rock we finally reach the goal! We must put on our masks because we feel the toxic vapors escaping from the crater. It is superb ! we can see the crater too well. It’s impressive ! And around us the landscape is discovered, we see other volcanoes, mountains and lakes from where we come from; and in front we see the glacier. It’s really great. I am proud to have reached the end. Quentin is very happy so we take full advantage of this moment.
After 20min we go down to the bags. We have lunch and then we equip for the descent … sled !!! another thing I hate; the speed and the snow is not for me. Quentin is too excited he is waiting impatiently! We see the people who start to get excited and leave, we hear the cries of girls too …
It’s our turn. We put ourselves in position then go! It’s going too fast ! I scream ! in addition we must hold the ice ax in front of us to slow down and I am too afraid to put it in my head. Quentin is too happy he’s going too fast. There are several sections. After 30min of tobogganing we remove everything. I must admit that it was nice anyway …
The last portion of descent will be fast. We will go super fast because we will walk on a slope on volcanic sand. On the way we talk with two French people who were with us and who go down at the same time.
We arrive at the bottom, we are happy to have done this hike even if for me it was the worst of all!
We will return to camp early enough. The shower will be cold … but I will discover it once inside … a young will tell us that we have to pay for hot water so we shower in cold water (again we will make our creeps while the water hot costs less than 1.5euros …). After that we will look again for Tahiti. Housing prices have flamed !! thankfully we are saving here!
We will go to bed early again because tomorrow we would make a big hike in the national park.
At night I will not sleep too much; the stupid dogs scream all the time it’s unbearable!
This morning we get up early and it’s too difficult. The night was short because of those idiots of dogs. It’s raining more! It should calm down this afternoon. There is a bus at 8:30 so we try to hurry up packing everything. We would like to change camping and sleep in the park.
We finally take our time, so much so that we decide to take the next bus.
Once we are ready we go to the stop and the girl tells us that the next bus is at 13h … it is 9h … so we decided to take the 13h because there is no other way to go there, and spend our time in a cafe eating and drinking.
It’s time for the bus, finally! The rain has stopped and the sun is rising. We’re lucky ! We arrive at the park an hour later. The driver warns people that if they miss the last bus they will laugh to return to Pucon on foot!
We walk half an hour to get to the campsite. It’s pretty ; we see a lake on the left and the forest. It smells good. The campsite is run by a pretty Chilean lady (she looks like an Asian, she is very beautiful). There is the possibility of having hot water by paying a supplement but this time we will not be stingy! We must choose a location. It’s super nice, the pitches are well spaced and we have a picnic table. We choose one beside the river; we set up the tent and we go hiking to the lakes. It is 5 hours hike but the girl tells us that we should do it in 4 hours by walking fast.
We walk into the forest. It’s super pretty! The trees are so huge and majestic! We do not see the top sometimes! Some trunks are huge; others are double or triple! We find the endemic trees of Chile, conifers too beautiful that grow only in this country. The hike is not easy. We only walk up for 2 hours and it’s super steep! On the road we will see a waterfall. There will also be a view of a lake and the volcano but not super clear.
Two hours later we arrive at the first lake. It’s super pretty, the sky and the trees are reflected in it. There are three lakes close to each other and all are super pretty. There is way to continue the hike further to see others so we continue because we did not walk enough. We go deeper into the forest; it’s always so beautiful! The trees are even bigger and some are different. We hear woodpeckers, track and find them. Full of females! We arrive at the lake; it’s the prettiest we’ve seen! There is not much water but it is surrounded by conifers that are too beautiful and they are reflected in the water is super nice. In addition there is mist on the water it gives a poetic atmosphere instead. We are super happy but the sun begins to fall suddenly we make the opposite way by walking super fast. On the way the volcano will be cleared and will have taken a rosy hue! We arrive at the campsite two hours later, completely KO but super happy.
We will take our hot shower which will be kind of cold … then we cook. It is already dark so it will be using the front lamp. The sky is very clear and we see the stars, it’s too beautiful!
After the meal we decided to go see the lake 5min from the campsite to observe the stars. It’s majestic. We have never seen a sky like this! Quentin uses his application to see the constellations and I try to take pictures of the sky but they will be terrible. The sky shines with a thousand lights! There is not a single space without stars and the Milky Way is bright! To top it off, the starry sky is reflected in the lake! It’s too beautiful.
After a long time to curdle we will return to the tent to bed. Tomorrow big day of hiking planned.
Today I wake up in a bad mood. I am very tired of getting up early and walking for hours on challenging trails. I feel like I never rest my body.
We decide to go see the lake after breakfast and put away all the things. We are too lucky, the weather is nice but so cold that the lake is warmer than the outside air, forming a thick mist on the surface of the water. It’s so pretty. We make some pictures and then we start with our big bags. We hope to be able to leave them at CONAF for the day.
The road seems endless. My bag weighs a ton I cannot move forward! So I groan inside and I tell myself that tomorrow I will not go hiking. I’m really tired.
Almost forty minutes later we arrive at CONAF where we can leave our bags. I tell Quentin that tomorrow I will stay at the hotel (because we are going to get a hotel – need to sleep on a bed!). He is sad but he understands. He will be hiking alone tomorrow.
We start the hike. I have no idea what to see, I just know it’s a point of view. This is the most horrible hike I’ve done so far! We go up for 3 hours non stop !!!! I’m sick of it! In addition we are in the forest and we see nothing! I’m angry and I just want to stop and go down!
After 2 hours we arrive at a first point of view. We finally see the sky, it’s flat and we also see the Villarica volcano on which we climbed. It’s super nice but I’m too bad mood to enjoy. Quentin is happy with him and will be in charge of making the pictures for the day.
We continue, it climbs again and again. After a while it’s really too difficult; it makes me dizzy. At the top of the slope I decide to stop and wait for Quentin. I have in front of me a 180-degree view of volcanoes, lakes and mountains. It’s enough for me. Two more hours ago if we believe CONAF and my body tells me stop. I’ll stop in a corner waiting for Quentin.
After an hour Quentin returns! I should have gone, but physically it was too difficult. I did not think it would be so fast. He is super happy. He was up to the end and told me that it was climbing even more and that we were walking along the ridge (I will not have arrived). At the end it had a 360 view of all volcanoes, lakes and mountains. I’m glad he went there and he could see everything.
It will take two good hours to get off. Finally CONAF will have said anything again! We will have done 5h (for me) and 6h (for Quentin) instead of 8h! It’s a big difference!
We are waiting for the bus. People are starting to arrive. Two buses will be there, thankfully because there are too many people and everyone rushes!
In the evening we decided to make two crazy: hotel with private bathroom! good it will be 25 euros per night … in itself it’s not mega expensive! then restau! We order a pizza each and the waiter tells us that one is enough. Quentin said okay but I wanted my whole pizza !!! Plus it’s a normal size pizza! We are not anorexics! The server does the same with the dessert! Quentin was going to take one and finally told him we will share! I am fed up! Since when we share a dessert! I know we’ve lost weight but I’m still greedy! I groan on Quentin who explodes with laughter. I tell him that next time I will not share my dessert!
We will do some shopping then we will go to enjoy our great room to make a big sleep and watch netflix.